Day 6: We woke in a warm bed in the BnB. Packed our stuff, and the dry clothes tent and sleeping bag. Said bye-bye to Matteo, the nice owner of Ai tre Parchi Bed n Bike in Randazzo.
A nice sunny and cactussy road awaited us. Rode for some kilometers to the entrance of Nebrodi Park, a beautiful nature with two cows and one black horse, trees, and wild iris on the way up.
After we went up up up up and down to the river.
It was wet everywhere, we tried one path but the road was like a lake (or a river).
then bushwacking through the forest. a lot of vegetation and SPINES!
The ground got better but still very muddy. Our shoes got wet.
One cow freaked out when it saw max slip in the mud.
We rode (and pushed) up, up the hill to find Floresta (a name we liked a lot)
We asked a man (turned out to be the local drunk) who walked us to the hotel, where we found no food, but WINE.
-in fact i thought, if i gave the metal water flask and asked them to fill it up from a bottle…they would think, “what brutes, these cyclists!” but in the end, they only would sell us 1.5 litres of wine, filled up in a plastic water bottle.
Bought some baked ricotta from the cheese shop on the way to the campsite.
The man at the campsite was gentile and let us sleep in a little room with the heater to dry our shoes.
Cooked a tasty dinner with THREE kinds of cheese!
Day 7: Sun shining in the morning, the volcano still smoking but a bit further in the distance. We filled up the remainder of the wine in the metal flask, and charged our batteries again. from the sun. Sunshine makes all the difference!
Packed and into town for a cappuccino in the local bar, then off 3 km one way, following the track. It looked a bit muddy, so we turned back, and went another way. Finally finding the shortcut, it looked a bit muddy too.
Then we ate chips and discussed our tactics…go further into the muddy bush, a trail we know is at least three days out of civilization? it would be beautiful, but surely we would have to stress it to make it back for our flights afterwards. OR, zoom down the hill and eat pastries, and go back up over Etna, which was awesome the first time around.
we decided for downhill and pastries, and rode rode rode the longest day so far, 25km! Drinking wine on the way, drunkcyclists!!
Stopped in Randazzo for a coffee treat, then into the countryside. happy to find a place to camp up in the olive trees with no dogs, no people. cooked a lovely dinner, so nice to have the boiling pot AND the fry pan!
fancy country wine after dinner.
Day 8: snowfall in the night, melting snow for coffee and fill up our waterbottles. during packup it blizzarded a bit, so we hunkered down in the tent, wine for second breakfast! Out of the trees and onto the snowy road. Not a lot of traffic, and made our way to Bronte, where we had heard about the pistachios! we asked about one bnb, and ended up renting a oneroom apartment with attached garage to lock up the bikes. fine dinner in an actual restaurant! dry the sleeping bags and tent, and ate strange cookies in the night. warmmmmmm